Wednesday, 16 August 2017

Ambushed: A review of Bushmills Black Bush


Please note that this review includes spoilers pertaining to the movie The Departed. I don't feel bad for doing this, though, since that film was released 11 years ago. If you haven't seen it, what are you waiting for?

Hollywood movies can be boring and predictable. Most "blockbusters"  rely on a handful of clichés. Woman meets man, they hit it off, someone discovers a secret about the other, they call it off, miss each other, end up together. There, I just saved you the trouble of ever having to watch a Hugh Grant or Sandra Bullock movie ever again. You're welcome. Action movies are no different: the grizzled, jaded hero goes on one last quest (usually against a bunch of "ethnic" bad guys), meets the token "attractive" female (who is usually 25-30 years younger than him), watches his best friend (usually Kevin Pollak or Paul Giamatti) die, and completes quest by blowing things up real good. Sometimes the "twist" is that the best friend was the real bad guy. Yawn. But every now and then a movie, even within a clichéd genre, does things very differently. In 2006, Martin Scorsese gave us The Departed, a violent cops-and-gangsters movie. Instead of the Italian mobsters of his fantastic Goodfellas, Scorsese focused on Boston and the Irish mob. The Departed features a stellar cast (including the criminally underrated and underappreciated Ray Winstone), unexpected twists (Billy Costigan's unceremonious death), great dialogue (Mark Wahlberg's accent and prodigious use of vulgarity is a treat for the ears), and a plot that focuses intensely on identity. While the viewer knows that Sullivan (Matt Damon) is "the rat" who helps mob boss Frank Costello (Jack Nicholson), we don't find out until later that Costello himself was a rat.


Wahlberg's performance was wicked awesome.
So what does this have to do with Irish Whiskey? I'm glad you asked. I take jabs at Irish whiskey all the time, but I don't really worry about offending anyone, since, as far as I can tell, the Irish don't get offended. Or, at least not by a silly French-Canadian like me. Jocularity aside, I've always found Irish whiskey acceptable if somewhat dull and predictable, like action movies or rom-coms. Irish whiskey is good in a pinch, I thought, but it doesn't merit the same reverence Scotch whisky commands. A good friend changed my mind somewhat with a tasting of Green Spot, and while it's good, the price of it also buys a nice bottle of Old Pulteney 12, Glenfiddich 15, Laphroaig 10 or Highland Park 12. All of those suit me better than the Green Spot. But on a recent family trip, I purchased a bottle of Bushmills Black Bush and found an Irish whiskey that outperforms just about anything I've found at that price point (approx. $37 CAD).


A word about Bushmills


Bushmills claims to be the oldest distillery in Ireland; King James I granted landowner Thomas Philips a license to distill in 1608. The distillery has survived fires, tax increases and prohibition. The whiskey was even mentioned by James Joyce in his magnum opus, Ulysses. It's in Episode 18-Penelope, in case you're wondering. The Original Bushmills is a light, floral and completely unoffensive blended whiskey. It's fine, but not particularly noteworthy in this writer's opinion. Black Bush is different. It contains a high proportion of malt whiskey that was aged 8-10 years in Oloroso Sherry casks. If you remember from previous reviews, this imparts a fruity, sweet flavour to the whiskey. What is "a high proportion" of malt whiskey? I don't know. I've read it's as high as 80% malt whiskey, but I can't seem to confirm this anywhere. Also, remember that Irish whiskey is, in general, triple distilled; Scotch whisky is distilled twice. Thus, Irish whiskey is generally thought to be "smoother" than Scotch. So how does Black Bush taste?


Tasting notes


Also wicked awesome
Nose (undiluted): citrus (lemon), red fruit, red grapes, apples
Palate (undiluted): medium-bodied, very little tongue-burn (bottled at 40% ABV), lots of red fruit (cherry, raspberry), malty, nutty, biscuits
Finish: medium length, red fruit developing to milk chocolate, cinnamon with a licorice note lingering.

Adding water didn't change much in the character of this whiskey, but adding ice brought out more fruit and toned down a bit of the malt sweetness. I prefer this one neat, or maybe chilled. I would like to try chilling the bottle or even the glass. At 40% ABV, it doesn't need to be diluted any further, but tasting it cold was quite nice (heresy!!!). I was surprised that the finish was as long as it was. Bushmills Original has a fairly short finish and I was surprised that the Oloroso casks had such a prominent influence. Or maybe it is close to 80% malt whiskey after all. I'm not quite sure where the longer finish comes from, but it's a treat.



Conclusion


Just when you think you've got things figured out, the elevator door opens and Leonardo DiCaprio gets shot in the head. Ok, maybe that's just The Departed. But sometimes surprises are far more pleasing. When I bought Bushmills Black Bush during a recent family vacation, I only hoped it would be good enough to keep my brother pacified (he drank some of the whiskey I bought while I drank quite a bit of the beer he bought). However, I believe I discovered a whiskey that is fit to occupy a regular space in my whisk(e)y cabinet. It's not outrageously priced, it's readily available and it's really, really good. Surprises can be good.


Rating: 3/5 moustaches




May you have the hindsight to know where you've been, the foresight to know where you're going and the insight to know when you're going too far.

Slainte !

Wednesday, 26 July 2017

A Lot To Be Thankful For: a review of Lot no.40 Rye

It is striking how history, when resting on the memory of men, always touches the bounds of mythology
Leopold von Ranke (1795-1886)




I think she's older than 9
I love history. It was my major during my undergraduate studies. It is fascinating to discover the past "as it really was", devoid of any modern romanticism. That's the way it's done in an academic setting. Historical fiction can be interesting, yet many such novels and Hollywood movies present a very rosy picture of the past. At their least offensive, historical fictions change certain facts and ignore others to tell entertaining stories. I loved the 1995 movie Braveheart. There is very little historical accuracy in Mel Gibson's portrayal of the Scottish rebellion lead by the hero William Wallace; Scotland's King Alexander III died in 1296, not 1276 as suggested in the movie and there had been peace between England and Scotland for 60 years. The Scots of the time period would not have worn plaids. Primae Noctis (or droit du seigneur) was never a real thing. At the time of Wallace's rebellion in 1297-1298, Princess Isabella would have been about 9 years old and she was living in France; it is highly unlikely that she would have looked like Sophie Marceau and even more unlikely that she had an affair with William Wallace. But I can forgive these "liberties" more than I can forgive what I consider greater offenses: mythologizing and idealizing the past to suit our current beliefs and projecting our modern attitudes onto the past. Medieval Europeans did NOT believe the Earth was flat. The French, not George Washington, were largely responsible for the tactics and strategies that won the American War of Independence (links here and here), feminists NEVER publicly burned their bras. Historian Leopold von Ranke argued that the past should be studied "as it was", that is to say, in its own context. This does not always sit well with people, but it is logical. When someone claims they would have loved to live in another time period, they often assume their modern attitudes and opinions would still form the base of their character. This is a mistake, and it is why I'm thankful I live now. I'm not trying to judge or condemn the past, but I would NOT want to return to the days of prohibition. Sure the fashion was great, the music was swingin', there was no reality television, but dying of tuberculosis, measles or smallpox was probably not a good time. More superficially, trying to get some decent hooch (i.e. alcohol) was probably more difficult than Hollywood would have us believe. So while I had to drive to an LCBO a whole 20 kilometres away to find my bottle of Lot no. 40 Rye, I can't really complain too much.


What is Lot no.40?


The original Lot 40 (circa late 1990s) was the brainchild of then Master Distiller Mike Booth. It was an attempt by Hiram Walker to create three different premium whiskies known as the Canadian Whisky Guild. The success of these whiskies was limited, probably owing to the snobbishness of consumers when it comes to premium Canadian whiskies. Lot 40 was discontinued, much to the chagrin of Canadian whisky enthusiasts. In 2012, Corby spirits (which had acquired Hiram Walker) re-released Lot no.40. To ensure that they weren't just selling a venerated name and capitalizing on the (recent) past, Master distiller Dr Don Livermore consulted with the retired Mike Booth to ensure the recipe was authentic. This was the right move. Some companies would have been happy to cash in on a name, but Corby decided to produce a spirit worthy of its much vaunted reputation. Lot no. 40 is a 100% Rye whisky and rye can be tricky to work with, so we're lucky to have Dr Livermore contributing to this one. Lot 40 is produced in a single, 12 000 litre copper pot still at the Hiram Walker facility in Windsor, Ontario. Lot no. 40 won Canadian Whisky of the Year in 2015 (Canadian Whisky Awards) as well as Connoisseur Whisky Of The Year Multiple Markets and a Gold Medal in 2017 (Canadian Whisky Awards). So I guess you could say it's kind of a big deal. I'm often asked how Canadian whisky compares to single malt scotch or bourbon, and I can only come up with the following analogy:

Which is better?

  • Apple pie
  • Chicken pot pie
  • Tourtière (a traditional French-Canadian meat pie)
You can't fairly compare an apple pie to anything other than apple pie. Ditto for the other pies. Each must be compared on its own terms. And so it is with whisky. I hope this makes sense. There's a time and place for every whisk(e)y.

Tasting notes


Lot no. 40 Rye
Boozy apple pie

Nose (undiluted) : rye bread, oak, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper
Palate (undiluted): medium-bodied, rye spice, toasted oak, lots of baking spices, cinnamon hearts, hints of apple and caramel
Finish: medium-long, spicy, slight vanilla note, black pepper with oakiness lingering.

Adding water allows more complexity to shine through. Lot 40 may seem like straightforward at first, but it deserves your full attention. With water, more herbal notes come through and some pipe tobacco makes an appearance. There is also a citrus note that becomes more evident with water, perhaps oranges. This whisky is even great in an Old Fashioned tumbler on the rocks. Hey, not every whisky needs to be sipped from a Glencairn all of the time. If a vessel can deliver whisky to my mouth, it is an appropriate vessel. Nick Offerman drinks his whisky from an Old Fashioned tumbler, so it's acceptable in my books.





Conclusion


Nostalgia can be tricky. When a discontinued item is brought back, there will always be those who claim "the old one was better" or something along those lines, yet there are a whole lot of reasons to be thankful for the return of Lot no. 40. I never tried the old version, but this one is fantastic. It is another whisky which makes me reconsider what I thought I knew about Canadian whisky. At $40 CAD, it is quite affordable and the flavour profile is a nice change from single malt scotch. Not better or worse; different. I strongly urge you to try it. I like it almost as much as Dissertation, so much so that I can't even rate it a half a moustache lower, and that's saying a Lot !


Rating: 4/5 moustaches




Cheers, eh !

Tuesday, 18 July 2017

The Doctor is In: A review of Wiser's Dissertation

Not a doctor I'd trust

Higher education is a wonderful thing. With post-secondary and graduate studies becoming more accessible, human knowledge is advancing at an exponential rate. For all the negative effects of globalization (which I will not prattle on about here), there have been positive effects as well. Experts can come from anywhere on the planet, they can be any gender, sexual orientation etc. Scientists, for example, need not conform to the Eastern European milquetoast archetype; they can be as diverse as Neil deGrasse Tyson, Jane Goodall, Chen Ning Yang, or Yoichiro Nambu.   And with rigorous competition in most fields, there are fewer fraudsters who can fleece the innocent, à la Dr. Nick Riviera (HI everyBODY !!!!). Now there are still hucksters out there but the scientific community is global and pretty good at sniffing out the fakes. When I read that Don Livermore, Master Distiller at J.P. Wiser's had a Ph.D. in Distilling, I had to investigate further. I had always thought of Wiser's as a mixing whisky and hadn't given their premium offerings a second glance. What I found changed the way I think about Canadian Whisky.


Meet the doctor


He knows more about whisky than you
Don Livermore was born in Fordwich, Ontario, a small town just north of Waterloo. He earned his Bsc in microbiology from the University of Waterloo and earned his M.Sc. and Ph.D. in Brewing and Distilling from Heriot Watt University in Edinburgh. Yes, THAT Edinburgh. So Dr Don earned his Ph.D. in Distilling from a Scottish University. Let that sink in for a minute. I believe the kids call this "street cred". Livermore has pioneered analytic techniques in the industry through the use of infrared sensors. His technique measures and quantifies the wood extracts left in a barrel. This allows him to calculate how 3, 6 or even 12 years in a barrel will affect a whisky. He states in an interview (here) that 60 days of aging in virgin oak casks will impart more vanilla, caramel and toffee notes than 18 years in first-fill bourbon casks (the industry standard for single malt scotch). Livermore has even authored a chapter in The Alcohol Textbook, 4th edition, which is apparently an industry standard reference book for scientists and engineers. While I will likely never read this book, I'm thankful that people who produce my liquor of choice take it seriously enough to warrant not only a textbook, but four editions of said textbook. Most impressive.


What is Dissertation?


Wiser's Dissertation Canadian Whisky
Yes, that's my paw holding MY bottle
Before I get into tasting notes, I should point out that Dissertation has won World’s Best Blended Limited Release at the World Whiskies Awards, and a Gold Medal at the 2017 Canadian Whisky Awards. So while our opinions and tastes are highly personal, some serious experts have concluded (like me) that this is a damn fine whisky while doing blind taste tests. Heady praise indeed. According to the Toronto Whisky Society (article here) Dissertation is:
  • Approximately 12 years old (all barrels from 2004/2005), but non-age-stated. I've been opposed to NAS whiskies for reasons unrelated to taste and flavour, but rather relating to the way they are marketed. However, I'm becoming a BIT more open-minded where NAS whisky is concerned. Yet more information is always a good thing.
  • A blend of 60 barrels, all virgin oak using #2 (88%) or #4 (12%) char.
  • The blend is 87% rye, mostly column & pot-distilled (distilled to ~80%) plus some column distilled Rye (distilled to ~70%). The rest is double column distilled corn (distilled to ~94%).
  • 46.1% ABV: the science fiends among you may recognize 46.1 as the atomic weight of an ethyl alcohol molecule. I did not recognize this; I read it somewhere and verified it. Seems legit.
  • Non-chill-filtered: I have written about this before and I'm very pleased to see this.
  • No colour added: I've argued that E150A (a.k.a caramel colouring or spirit caramel) is NEVER necessary,  but the use of virgin oak imparts so much colour that even marketing people are ok with leaving it alone.
  • Limited Release: only 60 barrels were used for this LCBO-exclusive release, BUT there are another 54 barrels from Don’s PhD left in the warehouse! Whether they get released as a “Dissertation 2.0” or used in other blends is unknown at this point.

Another difference between the Canadian and American approach to whisky-making:

  • When making bourbon (U.S.) the mash bill (grain mixture) is determined and then the grains are cooked, fermented, distilled and aged together.
  • When making Canadian Whisky, the grains are cooked, fermented, distilled and aged separately and blended during the finishing stages. This allows the blenders to create specific flavour profiles.

This isn't a hard and fast rule for Canadian whisky, but it is the standard procedure.


Tasting notes


Nose (undiluted): very rye forward, toasted oak, maple sugar, some baking spices, mint in the background

Palate (undiluted): surprisingly smooth arrival, medium bodied, rye spice, vanilla, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, red apples

Finish: medium length, more rye spice, vanilla, some charred oakiness lingering


Adding water to Dissertation allowed the spices, particularly cloves, to come through a bit more, but the rye and oak were still quite present. In addition to the toasted oak, water brings a freshly-cut oak note to the nose. The rye is very pronounced in this whisky and that's a great thing. If you associate rye flavour with inexpensive mixer whiskies (e.g. Wiser's Special Blend, Canadian Club), Dissertation can show you just how good rye whisky can be.


Conclusion


Is this our National confidence level?
Canada regularly produces greatness, yet Canadians are reluctant to boast. Sure, if it's hockey-related, we proudly rhyme off names like Orr, Lemieux, Gretzky, Yzerman, Roy, Crosby, or McDavid as proof of our nation's ability to be among the best in the world. Perhaps we simply like to appear humble. Perhaps we worry too much what other nations think of us: we feel like we're Milhouse and the U.S.A. is Bart Simpson. When it comes to whisky, Canada is producing some of the finest spirits anywhere. It isn't scotch, it isn't bourbon; it is uniquely Canadian. We've been producing a lot of whisky for a very long time, and we're pretty good at it. Wiser's Dissertation proves that imaginative Canadians like Don Livermore can combine art and science in a way that should make us proud. I can't recommend Dissertation highly enough. If you can find a bottle, buy it. You won't regret it.


Rating: 4/5 moustaches




Cheers, eh !

Wednesday, 12 July 2017

Taming the Beast: A review of Lagavulin Distillers Edition 1999/2015


I believe this is what the kids call #LifeGoals
Everyone has something they love to an absurd and irrational degree. And this love is often bizarre and incomprehensible to others. Like those who love The Grateful Dead. Seriously, what's the deal? Who wants to listen to a bunch of stoners tuning their guitars and noodling around aimlessly for three and a half hours? I kid, I kid. Sort of. I love Lagavulin. What can I possibly say about Lagavulin that I haven't already said or written? If you know me, or if you have ever read this blog, you undoubtedly know about my somewhat obsessive love for this nectar of the gods. It is also the preferred drink of moustachioed libertarian extraordinaire Ron Swanson and, not coincidentally, the drink of choice of Nick Offerman who portrayed Ronald Ulysses Swanson on Parks and Recreation. Offerman even teamed up with Diageo (corporate owners of Lagavulin, Talisker, Oban, Caol Ila, Dalwhinnie, Johnnie Walker and more) to produce a series of YouTube videos entitled "My Tales of Whisky". The collection includes "The Treasure of Lagavulin",  "That's Not Lagavulin", "Lagavulin-Scented Holiday Gifts" and even an uninterrupted Yule Log video wherein Offerman sits by a fire whilst sipping Lagavulin. This may not appeal to everyone, but it's the kind of humour that tickles my fancy. However, Lagavulin Distillers Edition is different from the "standard" Lagavulin 16 Year Old. How you ask? Read on, friend.

What is Lagavulin?


Lagavulin distillery is one of the three "heavy hitters" of the peat-heavy southern Islay distilleries, alongside the excellent Ardbeg and Laphroaig. Lagavulin has a long and storied history of feuds with Laphroaig that you can read about here (be sure to click on "discover more"), if you're interested. Lagavulin's range of whiskies is not extensive, but it doesn't need to be. The most common Lagavulin is the 16 Year Old, though Lagavulin usually releases a 12 Year Old Cask Strength malt almost every year. Diageo released an 8 Year Old Lagavulin in 2016 to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the (legal) founding of Lagavulin. So what is "Distillers Edition"? While Lagavulin 16 is mainly aged in refill European Oak casks, Distillers Edition is Double Matured. That means that some of the spirit is aged in European Oak while another portion of it is matured in Pedro Ximenez (sherry) casks. This is not sherry-finished, but double matured. This leads to a different flavour profile.

Tasting notes:


Lagavulin Distillers Edition 1999/2015
Liquid cigar, in a good way
Nose (undiluted): classic Lagavulin smoke and peat, with that maritime (brine, seaweed) iodine note, developing some sweet sherry with dark fruit (dates) and fresh tobacco (cigar)

Palate (undiluted): rich and full-bodied, sweet arrival and dates developing quickly to classic Lagavulin smoke and peat, a bit of leather and black pepper, with more cigar notes

Finish: long, smoky, some dark chocolate and coffee notes, with brine and tobacco lingering



Adding water initially brings out much more maritime character on the nose. You get hit with the briny, iodine smell of seaweed washed up on the shore, and more sherry fruitiness. Left to sit for another 5-10 minutes, the brininess gets toned down a bit and the big sherry nose is back, mingling with the beach smells. The flavour on the palate is not as immediately sweet once water is added, but is just as rich and unctuous. The first thing you taste by adding water is wood smoke, developing to sweet sherry, dark fruit and chocolate. The finish is a touch less smoky with water, but the dark chocolate is far more apparent. As odd as it sounds (or pretentious, depending on your point of view), adding water didn't change the aromas and flavours as much as it re-ordered and re-focused them. Either way, this Distillers Edition is a dram to linger over. A 1 1/2 oz. pour lasted me over an hour. Before you write me off as a snob (though the criticsm may be valid), know that I nose my Lagavulin as soon as it's poured, then again after 10 minutes sitting in the glass, then again after another 10 minutes. So the first 20 minutes features no tasting whatsoever. I then take a few small, baby sips neat. Then I add a teaspoon of distilled water, nose it immediately, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and nose it some more. Once you get past feeling silly about this process, it is very rewarding. The smells really do evolve, and no, it's not imagined. There is a scientific explanation for the chemical reactions that are occurring at the molecular level throughout this process, but I won't bore you with it here.


Conclusion



Lagavulin is like Duke Silver, your tour guide to bliss,
rapture and wonder
Lagavulin is revered by many malt enthusiasts. Unlike other distilleries whose near-mythic reputations are the product of marketing rather than quality (*cough Macallan*), Lagavulin actually delivers the goods. Others may have had different experiences, but I've never encountered a bad Lagavulin. It is as solid and predictable as Ron Swanson's social and political views. Is Lagavulin Distillers Edition better than the "standard" 16 Year Old? Different, not better or worse. It would be impossible to decide which alter-ego is Andy Dwyer's greatest. Is Johnny Karate better than Burt Tyrannosaurus Macklin? Who could pick a favourite between Duke Silver and Ron Swanson? So it follows that comparing Lagavulin Distillers Edition to Lagavulin 16 Year Old is a fruitless endeavour. Both should be appreciated for the treasures they are, much like Li'l Sebastian.


Rating: 4.5/5 moustaches





Slainte mhaith !



* I only kid about Macallan. I'm not a fan, though I know many people are. It's just a little humour, folks.


Wednesday, 5 July 2017

Get It While You Can (that's what she said!): A review of Benromach 10 Year Old Single Malt


I love the television program The Office. The U.S. version, that is. (I'm unfamiliar with the U.K. version). The Office is funny, but not always in an over-the-top kind of way. Much of the humour is subtle, like a look from Jim in the background, or the presence of decorative items in Michael's office. Now there are some laugh-out-loud moments (pretty much any time Kevin speaks) and some awkward moments that are so unnerving, you can't help but laugh. The cast created a synergy that made the show more than the sum of its constituent parts. The funny thing is, I didn't really watch "The Office" when it originally aired. I caught an episode every now and then, but I didn't "get it". It's easy to miss nuance if you aren't paying attention. Luckily, the whole series is on Netflix and I can watch it all at my leisure (and I do). Sometimes, we aren't so lucky. Sometimes, by the time you realize something is great, it's gone or hard to find. That may be the case with Benromach 10 Year Old Single Malt. If you wait too long to try it, it might be more expensive by the time you get to it or Benromach may be so popular that finding it might be hard (that's what she said!).


About Benromach distillery


benromach scotch casks warehoused
99 barrels of scotch on the wall, 99 barrels of scotch

Benromach is the smallest distillery in Speyside. They employ only 3 people. Yes, you read that right. Three people. They only produce about 200 000 litres of spirit per year. That may sound like a lot of whisky, but consider this: Glenlivet produces over 10 million litres of spirit per annum. The Benromach distillery opened its doors in 1898 near the town of Forres. It has changed hands many times over the years and owners United Distillers (forerunner to Diageo) mothballed the Benromach distillery in 1983. In 1993, independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail purchased the distillery and in 1998, Benromach began producing spirit once again. The distillery's 10 year old expression hit the market in 2009. The Benromach website refers to their malt as a "classic pre-1960s Speyside". Now I don't know what this means exactly, since I was born at the tail-end of the 1970s and my financial portfolio does not permit me to purchase bottles from that era. I'll take them at their word. One of the unique features of Benromach is that they use a dunnage warehouse. A dunnage warehouse uses stone walls, an earthen floor, is not climate controled and allows the seasonal variations to affect the casks and the spirit contained therein. Does this impart a different flavour and character than warehousing in a large, climate-controlled industrial warehouse? I have no idea. You can watch this video (opens in a new window) to have it explained to you by a Scotsman from Benromach. What does Benromach 10 taste like? Funny you should ask.

Tasting notes

benromach 10 year old speyside
A pleasant surprise (that's what she said!)

Nose (undiluted): demerara sugar, malt (barley), peat smoke, red fruit (raspberries),  green apples, herbal notes in the background.

Palate (Undiluted): medium bodied and creamy, sweet vanilla, malt (barley), raspberries, biscuits (tea biscuits or grosses galettes, if you're French-Canadian), mild sherry note, charred oak, peat smoke

Finish: medium length, fruitiness returning, peat smoke, biscuits, very moreish*


Adding water really opened up this whisky. It is really good neat. It is incredible with a small splash of water. The nose becomes much fruitier and more focused. Grilled pineapple appears on the nose right after the raspberries. The vague "herbal note" on the nose becomes much more akin to cardamom. The taste becomes fruitier and "clearer" as well. You don't really lose any of the nice creaminess of the body, and the fruit becomes evident. Usually, sherried whiskies carry dates, figs or raisins on the palate. Not so with Benromach. The fruit is brighter and more vibrant. Now the maturation is 80% first-fill bourbon barrels and only 20% ex-sherry casks so this isn't a sherry-bomb by any means. However, the combination works brilliantly. This may be the best whisky bang for your buck I've ever encountered.

*moreish: refers to a food or whisky that you constantly want more of. Remember that Lay's Chips slogan? "Bet you can't eat just one" That's moreish.



Conclusion


Don't mess with the Schrute

I've often told people not to judge whisky based on its price tag. Benromach 10 costs $59 here in Ontario, the most expensive scotch whisky jurisdiction in the known universe*. That's not a lot of money for a very high quality single malt. If you are unsure about peated whisky, this might be a good place to start. The smoke and peat are present, but Benromach 10 won't punch you in the face like Dwight Schrute did whilst protecting Jim Halpert from an aggressive Roy Anderson. But Benromach definitely makes its wonderful presence known, albeit subtly, much like Pam Beesly. My only gripe, and it is an admittedly minor one, is that I'd like this malt at a slightly higher strength. Benromach does indeed make a 10 year old at British Imperial 100 proof (approx. 57% ABV) that I'd love to try, but I think the "standard" would benefit from being bottled at 46%. That said, this is a great malt and well worth the sixty bucks. Highly recommended.


*not a verifable fact


Rating: 3.5/5 moustaches




Slainte mhaith !!!

Wednesday, 28 June 2017

Reach For the Skye: A review of Talisker 10 Year Old Single Malt

It's easy to dismiss something popular. Mass appeal must equate to mediocrity, right? I mean, does any film critic think Toy Story is fine cinema, the equal of Bicycle Thieves? Doubtful. I was fifteen or sixteen when Woody and the gang entered our collective psyche, but I still remember deriving a guilty pleasure from the feel-good story. And Randy Newman's catchy "You've Got a Friend in Me" is arguably the best movie theme song ever. I'm sure I publicly derided the children's movie at the time, but I didn't mind watching it with my then eleven year-old brother. Fast forward to the present day, and I don't have to hide my enjoyment since I have three kids with whom I can enjoy the franchise. Well, two anyway. My oldest rolls his eyes at Woody's endearing "Howdy, Partner. You're my favourite deputy" quote. Is it possible that some things are popular because, well, they add something to our collective experience? Is it possible that some things endure because they are important, deserving and just darned good?

Reach for the sky(e) !!!
It seems anything associated with big corporations is unfairly labeled bad, bland or soulless. I've likely been guilty of these sweeping generalizations at times. While I'm sure massive multinationals don't need my pity, or my help, their products should not be  dismissed as  mediocre by default either. Within these big, "empty" machines, are passionate individuals. The individual artists who worked on Toy Story undoubtedly love their work and believe in what they're doing. I feel the same way about multinational-owned distilleries. Diageo and Beam-Suntory may be the big dogs of the liquor market, but the distilleries themselves employ individuals who put time, effort and pride into what they do. I'm all for keeping big business accountable in their practices, but I want to try and remain as objective as possible when discussing the product of others' labour.

*stepping down off my soap-box


Skye's the limit


In 1825, Hugh and Kenneth MacAskill moved to the Isle of Skye with their flock of  sheep. They leased land at Carbost where they built Talisker Distillery in 1830. Teetotaler and former parish Minister, Rev. Roderick Macleod strongly opposed the construction of the distillery. He declared whisky distilling  on Skye "one of the greatest curses that... could befall it or any other place". Macleod must have been fun at parties. He probably supplied the angry schoolmaster's vocal track for Pink Floyd's "Another Brick in the Wall Pt. 2." If ya don't eat yer meat, ya can't have any pudding. How can ya have any pudding if ya don't eat yer meat? In "The Scotsman's Return From Abroad", Robert Louis Stevenson refers to Talisker as "The king o' drinks, as I conceive it". Heady praise indeed. The distillery itself is unique. From www.thewhiskyexchange.com


Talisker's two wash stills, carefully recreated after the 1960 fire, are unique. The lye pipes leading off from the main neck are U-shaped, to trap vapours from the first distillation before they reach the outside worm tubs, whilst a small secondary copper pipe carries the vapours so trapped back to the wash stills for a second distillation.
Faithfully following the original design, it is believed that this double distillation ensures that all of Talisker’s rich, deep character is captured the first time. So there is, indeed, nothing withdrawn or reserved about Talisker – a fact confirmed for visitors whose first experience before they take the distillery tour, is a taste of the malt itself.

Can't make it out to the Isle of Skye this weekend? No problem. Using this link takes you to a Google Maps virtual tour of the distillery. Criticize Diageo (corporate owners of Talisker) all you want, that's a cool feature. Joining the "Friends of the Classic Malts" gives you free access to twelve of Diageo's distilleries AND a complimentary dram of their single malt. Not bad at all. But how does the "standard" Talisker 10 taste?

Tasting notes
Talisker 10 Year Old Single Malt
The king o' drinks


Nose (undiluted): brine, smoke, bonfire by the sea, dried leaves (tobacco?), mineral water, damp peat, pepper, this is one of the most inviting and unique noses I've encountered. You could spend hours simply nosing this beauty.

Palate (undiluted): medium to full-bodied and rich, white pepper, sea brine, smoke, vegetal yet subtly sweet peat drying fairly quickly, ginger notes 

Finish: medium-long, warming, peppery (though more like black pepper on the finish), more subtle ginger, subtle hints of ripe pear, lingering. You don't want this to end.



Adding a bit of water (1/2 teaspoon or approx. 2.5 ml) brings out more smoke on the nose and accentuates the seaweed and dried tobacco aromas. This is sublime. The white pepper is really thrust forward on the palate, developing to a nice, dry, vegetal peat with that ginger still hanging around. Talisker is great with or without water, but note that it's bottled at 45.8% ABV. Talisker is NOT for the faint of heart, nor is it a "beginner's whisky". But to someone who's never had Talisker, it is a must have. Calling this whisky exquisite is an understatement. This malt is complex and worth lingering over.

Conclusion


Diageo is the bête noire of many malt enthusiasts. They're often accused of "ruining malt whisky in the name of profit". This charactarization may contain a kernel of truth, it may be an exaggeration, or it may be outright false. I truly don't know enough about the whisky business to be pro or anti-Diageo, though they did answer my emails fairly quickly and honestly. I heard rumours that Talisker was no longer warehousing and aging their malts at the distillery on Skye. When I emailed them regarding this, I was informed that the Talisker distillery does not have the capacity to warehouse all the casks of spirit Talikser produces, therefore some of it is stored at other locations across Scotland. Now, you can accuse Diageo of misleading consumers with Talisker's "made by the sea" tagline, but they aren't hiding anything. If you don't know, just ask. Does warehousing the malt "off-site" affect its character? I don't know. The briny character of my Talisker suggests it doesn't, but I'm not an expert. All I know is I enjoyed this whisky. A lot. I'm not sure if it has usurped Lagavulin's position as my favourite whisky, but it is a legitimate contender to that title. Highly recommended.


Rating: 4/5 moustaches




Slainte mhaith !!



Wednesday, 21 June 2017

Swept Away: A review of Dave Broom's "The World Atlas of Whisky"

This week's post is a bit different. Rather than reviewing a whisky, I'm reviewing a book with a wider appeal than any whisky could ever hope to possess. Many whiskies have a polarizing effect on drinkers (Ardbeg, Johnnie Walker Blue Label), but this book will appeal to all, even those who don't drink whisky. Dave  Broom's stated goal when writing this book was to survey the world's whisky landscape. He provides the reader with information on the various whisky-producing regions, the different processes used for distilling whiskies and even tasting notes for hundreds of whiskies. While my edition of this book contains some out of date information, it's impossible for any book to be completely current. The whisky landscape is ever-changing and it's impossible for print to keep up.

A broad brush


First impressions


Before reading a single word M. Broom has written, take the time to leaf through this book and admire the photography. I realize it doesn't tell you anything about whisky, but it speaks to the caliber and quality of this tome. If the photos don't stir up your wanderlust, especially the photos of Islay, Ireland and Japan, M. Broom's prose certainly will. The section on "terroir" moves beyond whisky and into the realm of identity and, dare I say it, philosophy. I realize that M. Broom has a team of editors working with him, but this is simply great writing. Should you doubt his talent, spend some time watching this video (opens in a new window) of Dave Broom explaining some history and guiding a group through a whisky tasting. The man knows his stuff.

 

The Flavor Map


Putting whisky on the map
One of my favourite features of this book is the flavor map. Developed with  a group of distillers, the flavor map (my edition of this book adheres to American spelling conventions) helps those new to whisky describe, in broad categories, the flavour characteristics of whisky. It also helps you map out your preferences. The x-axis (East-West) goes from light to rich and the y-axis (North-South) goes from delicate to smoky. In his description of whiskies, the author refers to the map by describing which "flavor camp" a particular whisky falls into. For example, if you read the description of Lagavulin 16 Year Old (my personal favourite), you'll find it in the "Rich and Smoky" flavor camp. The Glenomorangie Original 10 Year Old is close to the center, but slightly on the rich and delicate side. Neither quadrant is "better" than any other. The graph is simply a useful reference point. Each whisky is categorized into a flavor camp even if it is not represented on the visual map.

Also of note


Lagavulin Bay, Islay, Scotland
This is where happiness is made
The author has taken it upon himself to act as your guide. The book begins with some clear, well-explained diagrams of the various distillation processes of the world's different whiskies. This makes for some interesting comparisons and allows the reader to better understand their favourite drink. In every section  (and even sub-section in the case of Scotland), you get a bit of a history and geography lesson on the region as well as the distillery. This helps you better understand and enjoy whisky. A whisky is not simply a product, but an expression of time, place and yes, identity. Japanese distillers were strongly influenced by the Scottish distillation process (the first two Japanese distillers, Masataka Taketsuru and Shinjiro Torii, completed apprenticeships in Scotland in 1918) but Japanese whisky is not mere imitation. It reflects the Japanese fusion of old and new, of respecting tradition while championing innovation. Full disclosure: I've never tasted a Japanese whisky, much to my chagrin, but after reading the section on Japan, I could almost smell the aromas and taste the flavours of Hakushu, Yamazaki, Nikka, and Hibiki., such is the strength of M. Broom's writing. As much as I'd like to visit the Land of the Rising Sun, it won't likely happen any time soon. This chapter certainly furthered my interest in trying their whisky, if nothing else.

Broom goes beyond description and recommends a "next step" at the end of each series of tasting notes. For example, if you read his description of the Talisker 10 Year Old (an absolutely wonderful malt), you'll notice that his recommendation for "where to next?" is Springbank 10 Year Old (another delightful scotch). These malts share similar characteristics. This thoughtful feature allows you to build and develop your palate while knowing you won't be too shocked by what you find. Someone who has tasted naught but Glenfiddich 12 would undoubtedly feel overwhelmed by a Laphroaig 10 Year Old (aptly described on their site as a "Peaty Slap in the Face"). Someone who enjoys something as smooth as Redbreast 12 Year Old Irish Whiskey might be put off by the spicy rye flavour of Alberta Premium. Dave Broom's encyclopedic knowledge is here to guide you along.

Final thoughts


Whisky can be intimidating and confusing. Many want to try it, but don't know where to begin. Not only has Dave Broom included a "How to drink whisky" (really) section in his book, but his hints and advice guide you seamlessly through your journey. Even those who don't like uisge beatha ( roughly pronounced ooska va) will find the history and descriptions fascinating, informative and eminently enjoyable. If you only purchase one book about whisky (and you should have at least one) it should be this one. Highly recommended.


Rating: 5/5 moustaches




Slainte mhaith !